Author: Hiroyuki Kouda
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KIKUSUI
KIKUSUI_Brewing Sake_Information Enjoying_Sake Sake_Culture_Institute
   

SHUDO-The Way of Sake

Prologue

November

December

January

February

March

April

May

June

July

August

September

October

Japanese Sake Story

 
Chapter 6




 Kusudama (Sugidama), also called Sakabayashi, is a sphere of tightly bound young
leaves of Japanese cedar trees, where a deity of sake is believed to exist. Casks containing
newly pressed sake are placed.
     
   

 April is called Uzuki, a short form for U-no-hana-zuki,
which means that it is a time when the flowers of Utsugi,
or deutzia crenata, blossom. The name of the month
appears in Japanユs oldest written histories, Kojiki and
Nihon-shoki, as well as the oldest collection of Japanese
poetry, Man-yo-shu. The Chinese character U is
also used in the Chinese zodiac as the fourth sign of the
hare.
April fourth is called Seimei in the traditional Japanese
division of the year into 24 small seasons. This is the time
of year when everything is getting fresh.
Come spring, water in streams becomes warmer and
plants sprout. Daytime temperatures often rise to be
slightly sweaty, but they drop to lows in mornings and
nights.
Weather changes drastically day after day, often
bringing back chilly days called Kan-no-modori. High
and low pressure systems take turns and move over the
Japanese archipelago during the month, sometimes
causing a storm and help cherry blossoms fall faster
than they should.

 
   
 

Fresh sake is also pressed in April following March,
calling for our attention.New sake is regarded as a
youth in various types of sake.As it is young, its texture is
not yet solid.This, in a sense, is the vitality of fresh
sake.The best way to appreciate sake at this time of
year is to accept the vitality as it is.
  Cherry blossom viewing cannot happen without cups
of sake.Drinking parties, sitting under cherry blossoms in
circles, are a typical landscape of this season, but
singing-out-loud sprees and getting dead drunk should
both be avoided.
  Cherry blossom viewing is believed to have originated
as a custom of farmers who completed rice planting
and gathered to pray for good harvests of the year
under the blossoms.They would have never lost control
after drinking sake.
  The taste of fresh brew should be enjoyed in a relaxed
mood amid falling petals of the blossoms, while guessing
over what kind of rice the sake was made from,
how much the rice is polished or what kind of ferment is
used.

   
 
  

In the Kaiseki course of cuisine, several types of appetizers,
each one mouthful served on a plate, follow
Sakizuke dish.These appetizers are to accent the following
dishes and meant to make the meal and drinking
more gorgeous.
These appetizers are tend to be served on plates of the
host’s choice, small Hassun plates or other ones of
elaborate designs, for example.Let the beauty of the
earthenware delight our eyes as the flavors do our
palates.

   
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tai Sea bream
  Schools of Sakuradai, a type of sea bream, gather to
the Seto Inland Sea at this time of year to spawn.
Ancient documents say “warriors are the best type of
humans; Hinoki, or Japanese cypress, is best for pillars,
and sea bream is the best of all fishes.”The fish is also
regarded as one of the three most valuable
food.Among the 130 varieties of sea bream, Madai
(pagrus major) is considered as most beautiful.The fish,
coming from outer oceans to the Seto Inland Sea for
spawning from March to May, turns bright pink and so it
is called Sakuradai or Hanamidai.It also tastes superb
as that of the most kingly fish.
  In the Kansai region, western Japan, otsukuri, the
word for sliced raw fish, is a synonym to that of sea
bream.Excellent dishes of the fish includes shioyaki
broiled meat, ushio or broth with the fish and kabutoyaki
and kabuto-ni, or broiled or simmered head of the
fish.A gourmet would say the flesh around the fish’ eyes
is treasured as one of the three prime delicacies.
  Ancient document Engi-shiki says the name tai came
from the shape of the fish, which is flat. Sea bream is
said to be tasty all around the year but there are some
differences in taste according to the places they are
caught or seasons.
   
Hamaguri and Asari Clams
  Spring tides come in late April, or around March third
according to Japan’s Lunar Calendar.It is a good time
for clam gathering on beaches as ebb tide lasts longer
during the day.
  Hamaguri (hard clams) and Asari (short-necked
clams) are the major harvests of such gatherings.Any
clams become tastier than in any other seasons in
spring, as their meat thickens at this time of the year.A
shell of hamaguri will never fit with a shell from another
hamaguri, so that the clam is an indispensable accompaniment
to the Girls Festival on March third as a thing
that symbol of a woman’s fidelity to her husband.Many
snow-bound regions fete the festival on the Lunar
Calendar even these days, which means that the day
comes in late spring, so the best hamaguri clams are
available.
  Clams contain succinic acid, arginine and glutamic
acid, all of which give a different flavor from fish or
meat.The guts of the clams are highly digestible and
rich in minerals and vitamins, which means that they
are excellent as food accompanying sake.Hamaguri
and asari clams are good to be broiled and used in
broth. Asari simmered with Welsh onion and miso bean
paste also makes an excellent accompaniment to
sake.
   
Awabi Abalone
  Many believe that fresh abalones are available
throughout the year, but catching of the mollusk is
banned during winter, with the ban lifted in April.It
becomes most tasty from spring to summer, before it
spawns in late autumn.Green abalones are often
believed to be male and brown ones female, but this is
a misunderstanding.Male and female abalones cannot
be distinguished from their looks, except for male
genitals turning light brown and female genitals deep
green at the time toward spawning.
  Abalones are good for sashimi and sushi.Another
excellent way to prepare the delicacy is to rub the
fresh meat of abalones with salt to remove slime, then
chop them into pieces and float them on icy water.
The dish, called mizu-gai, is an excellent accompaniment
to sake.
  The guts can be served fresh with nihai-zu vinegar, or
be boiled and served with kimi-zu, or mayonnaise
Japanese style.Chinese love the guts believing they
are good for the eyes.
   

 

 

Bamboo shoot
  The Chinese character for the bamboo shoot means
a shoot that is within 10 days from sprouting.It tells how
fast bamboo grows, that the shoot becomes a hard
stem beyond that time frame.Bamboo shoots right
after being dug out has a soft texture and is free of
usual bitterness, so it can be served raw.This used to be
only available in areas close to the production sites,
but various home delivery services now allows fresh
bamboo shoots to be delivered even to far away in a
shorter time.One should boil the shoots as soon as they
arrived to have a better taste of them.
  When choosing one at a greengrocer’s, choose a
fresh, green and thick one with narrow joints.It should
be boiled in a large pot with red pepper and rice bran
in it.Then leave it inside the pot until the whole pot
cools down.
  Kinome-ae, or boiled bamboo shoots with miso bean
paste and pepper leaf buds, and bamboo shoots
simmered with butterbur, will make the best seasonal
accompaniments to sake.which are thin, chewy, and
unpalatable.

Translated by Kumi Miyahara Back May