The expression, Satsuki comes from the word, sanae,
which means sprouts of rice, described in the Chinese
letters, sa (meaning early) and nae (sprouts). As May is
the month farmers plant rice seedlings, it was the
sanae-zuki (month of sanae), which was shortened to
satsuki.
　 Japan’s earliest writing, the Chronicles of Japan,
writes that May, or the fifth month, Satsuki, came to be
called thus because flies, called the May flies, or sabae,
become active at this time of year. There are other
expressions that one associates with May. These include
Boshu, one of the 24 small seasons in Japan’s lunar
calendar, which marks the start of the rice planting
season, Chiuka (mid-summer), Uzurazuki (the month of
quail) and Tsuki- minu-tsuki (the month when the moon
goes missing).
　 As the unstable weather of early spring ends to bring
in clear blue skies, known as satsuki-bare (sunny May
weather). But even May weather could bring long days
of rain, reminiscent of the seasonal rain-front in June,
upsetting plans for the string of holidays that start end of
April. Because present day May falls in April in the
traditional lunar calendar, the month in which the
deutzia blooms, the rain that falls at this time of year is
called Unohana kudashi (the rain that causes the
deutzia flowers to wither). But when the sun prevails, the
May sun rises as high as in June, which would push the
mercury up. On days of rain, it could get humid and
hot.

May fifth, originally the Boy’s Day, is also called the
Tango no Sekku (the fifth day of the fifth month festival)
and Ayame no Sekku (the iris festival).
　 The iris flowers that come to bloom at this time of year
has a scent the Japanese have believed, since ancient
times, that drive away the evil spirits
　 There has long been a tradition to drink iris sake, in
which shredded iris roots were soaked into liquor), to
celebrate the special day.

The kaiseki cuisine, developed to accompany sake
drinking, has a menu of dishes grouped under the
various courses that make up a banquet.As was mentioned
in the earlier chapter, the first course is the
Sakizuke appetizer, which is followed by suimono
(soup).
　 To be served a soup meal just when the banquet has
hardly begun, may seem odd.But unlike the somewhat
casual soups flavored with miso paste and such, this
clear broth also accompanies sake as much as the
other meals. If anything, this dish, along with the sashimi
raw fish meal to follow, are the most important menus
in the course. This is because the soup is in effect a
greeting sent by the chef, which asks the diners to take
note of how this basic dish is prepared, because it
represents how he seasons all his other dishes.
　 It is important, therefore, to observe the basic
etiquette to eat steaming hot dishes while they are
hot.The soup is served in a lacquerware bowl with a lid.
Sometimes it is not easy to lift the lid.Should this be the
case, one should hold firmly the rim of the bowl with
his/her left hand so that the lid lifts on its own. The lid
should then be lifted with one’s right hand, and held
vertically, so the vapor on the back of the lid falls inside
the broth. It should then be placed on the right, and in
front of the soup bowl, with the back of the lid facing
up. Cooked inside the broth are ingredients that make
up five elements ? the main ingredient, typical of the
season, vegetables or herbs that accompany the main
ingredient, a green leaf or vegetable placed to give
the dish a refreshing look, broth, and something that
gives the broth a savory aroma, such as a small slice of
a peel of yuzu citrus fruit.
　 There is much logic in the fashion this dish is designed.
It serves the same purpose as soup to begin a meal
course in western cuisine. The meal prompts saliva and
gastric juice to secrete, which, in effect, protects the
gastric wall when liquor is ingested.
　 Diners should take only one or two sips of sake while
finishing this meal, to enjoy the feast of the season.

Yamame Trout and Japanese Char
　 The stars of freshwater fishing are Yamame trout and
Japanese char, which become tasty during early
summer and summer. Japanese char live upstream
Yamame trout.
　 Both species won’t be readily available unless
anglers are around, but the light taste of the fish
certainly goes well with sake.
　 But cultured rainbow trout, which are members of the
same family, are readily available in fish markets, so
here is a chance to enjoy fish from freshwater.