| |
 |
|
| |
Chapter 8
Yuzu citrus fruit remain a dark green color during the summer, and are hidden under
leaves of branches. But the fruit is very much enjoyed, as it helps one sober up, and take
away bad breath. The fruit is cherished by sake drinkers, that drop its juice into the liquor. |
|
| |
|
| |
 |
|
| |
 |
In the traditional lunar calendar, summer fully kicked
in during the month of June (present day July).The
month used to be called Minashizuki (Month of No
Water), as rice seedlings would have been planted by
then.Some say the month had been called as thus
because of the brutally hot season, which drained the
rice paddies, but present day June falls during the
month-long seasonal rain-front.By early June, the seasonal
rain-front would have kicked in, till the season is
declared over by the Meteorological Agency during
mid-July.
As the high pressure system over the Pacific develops,
a trough of pressure forms, and this in this trough develops
a discontinuous line and a low pressure system,
which turns into a stationary front to bring in long days
of rain. The seasonal rain-front is a phenomenon seen
only along areas that fall in the East Asia rain belt. It is
also referred to as Baiu Front, the Japanese word for
the seasonal rain-front. The month-long rainy season is
indispensable for rich rice harvest in the
autumn.However, an unusual pressure pattern could
bring a rainy season without rain, or localized torrential
rain. |
 |
| |
|
| |
 |
|
 |
May 23rd, in the traditional lunar calendar, was known
by the name of Chikusui-jitsu from long ago in China.It
was believed that the day is most suited for replanting
trees, because the bamboo would be too drunk to
notice on that day.
At this time of year, young bamboo grows very fast.
As bamboo needs much water to grow, the rainy
season is probably the best replanting season.
This is how one makes sake from henon bamboo. A
young henon is cut in two at one of the nodes. A small
hole is drilled at the node and refined sake is poured
and left for two days.Sugar and other contents seep
into the sake to improve its flavor. The sake is even said
to be effective in prolonging life
Chikureki-shu (Bamboo Oil Sake)
Cut diagonally a young bamboo stalk, carve out a
node, and fill the bamboo with sake. Place over stove
or fire, if outdoors, to warm the contents.
Bamboo oil, chlorophyll, Vitamin K are among the
contents that seep into the sake. This is called Chikureki
(bamboo oil) and for long was used as a medicine for
suspiration. Research in recent years has found that
bamboo oil is effective in preventing cancer.
The famed Daianji Temple, one of the seven great
Buddhist temples of the ancient capital of Nara serves
sasa-zake (bamboo lead sake) to worshippers every
January and June 23rd as part of a rite to mourn for
uprooted bamboo.
People in the southwestern main island of Kyushu, one
of the production centers of bamboo, call this sake
kapp-zake, after the sound the liquor makes when it is
poured into cups. The sake is apparently enjoyed in
gatherings and such.
Hiya-zake (Chilled Sake): The Rules of Thumb
More people enjoy chilled sake as summer
approaches. It’s best to preserve sake in temperatures
between three to five degrees Celsius during the
summer season. But serving sake straight from the refrigerator
is not recommended, because the liquor would
be too chilled. One cannot enjoy its aroma, or its taste.
Most sake is made from ground-water, and the water
is between ten to twelve, thirteen degrees. It’s only a
matter of course that sake can be best tasted at these
temperatures.
It’s best to take sake out of the refrigerator at least
two hours before a meal. |
 |
| |
|
|
| |
 |
|
|
|
Sashimi raw fish slices, whether eaten at home or in
restaurants, may be singled out as the best dish that
goes with sake.
For the chefs, the dish, wansashi (sashimi in bowl),
along with suimono (soup), is what’s regarded as the
most important course. It’s the custom for the master
chef to be in charge of preparing the dish.
Sashimi literally means cut, or stabbed body. Why the
name?
This is because in olden days, a slice of sashimi was
thrust on the fin of the fish, and placed on the dish to
help the diners recognize the fish. Two kanji Chinese
characters, sashi and mi, make up with the word,
sashimi, Originally a different kanji, with the meaning, to
point to, was originally used to write the character,
sashi.
The appearance of a sashimi dish reminds one of
landscape drawings.
Chefs follow certain set styles, but most sashimi dishes
are designed to create mini-landscapes. A dish could
depict a distant mountain range, middle and near
distances, green trees, a mountain stream, or at times,
a snow scene. It would be interesting to image a natural
landscape while enjoying the dish.
A close look at the dish shows that sashimi slices are
served in odd numbers. This is a very important, set rule.
One should taste the fish slices facing front, to be
followed by lighter fishes with somewhat bland tastes.
Sashimi tastes better with grated wasabi green horseradish.
But the aroma would be lost if the paste is mixed
with soya sauce. Wasabi should be placed on top of
the sashimi slice and wrapped as the fish is dipped in
sauce. Because the sauce may drip, one should lift the
small soya plate and place it under the slice of fish
when it’s carried into his/her mouth. It is considered
ill-mannered and vulgar to lean one’s head forward
towards the plate.
The importance of tsuma, or garnish, cannot be overlooked.
Hojiso, which are small stems of flowering seed
pods of shiso (perilla), should be added directly to the
dish containing soya sauce after the seeds are scraped
from the stem. Hold the tip of the stem, and scrape the
seeds with chopsticks. The seeds do not come off when
the butt end of the stem is held.
Any vegetable garnish cut thinly into strands is called
ken. A popular vegetable would be daikon giant white
radish. One tends to put too much soya sauce when
ken is dipped into soya sauce. It is best that the tips of
chopsticks be dipped several times into the soya sauce
and replaced on the garnish.
There are many people who do not eat any garnish,
but the vegetables are placed not only for decorative
purposes. They are part of the dish. Also from the
standpoint of taking a well-balanced meal, one should
polish off the plate.
Dry sake goes well with sashimi. The sake’s bitter flavor
rather compliments the taste of sashimi, and makes the
occasion even more enjoyable.
|
| |
|
| |
 |
|
|
 |
Ayu sweetfish
When the green, young leaves begin to sprout from
branches, it’s the time of year when the taste of young
sweetfish peaks. It’s the single-most special delicacy of
early summer. Natural sweetfish have a characteristic
aroma because they eat moss in the riverbed. They
are best eaten salted and grilled, but they can also be
served raw, while baby sweetfish in Lake Biwa tastes
wonderful, deep-fried, as a tempura dish.
Ayu, despite its rather bland taste, is rich in protein, and
is said to help reduce symptoms of so-called adult
diseases, which include high blood pressure and risks of
heart disease. |
| |
|
 |
Japanese sea bass
Another summer delicacy that cannot be forgotten is
Suzuki, the Japanese sea bass. Like a number of other
fish species in Japan, they are named according to
their size. In Tokyo, fish that are about 25 centimeters
long are called seigo. Fish that are about 50 centimeters
are known as fukko, and anything larger are called
suzuki.
Seigo sea bass from Matsue, western Japan, are said to
be the best. In fact, seigo also goes by the name of
matsue. A writing from the 17th century describes that
“the fish is called thus because of its white flesh, and its
pure (susugu) and innocent way of swimming. “ The
Daigenkai dictionary, on the other hand, also quotes
that “the name may also come from the way it swims
straight (sukusuku)”
The light taste and elegant, translucent appearance of
suzuki is perfect for early summer, but the fish is firm,
and can also be enjoyed in paper-thin slices, dipped in
mustard-vinegar-miso bean paste sauce, or with yuzu
citrus fruit, vinegar and soya sauce. It can also be
enjoyed salted and grilled, with a drop of sake.
The fish activates the kidneys and is said to have a
diuretic effect. It is a fish that should be eaten by pregnant
women, as it’s said to accelerate growth of the
fetus and prevent miscarriages. |
| |
|
|
Horse mackerel
The fish is readily available all year round, but they
come in season at this time of year. They can be
enjoyed in sashimi slices, pounded, tataki-style, grilled
with salt, dipped in vinegar sauce, deep-fried and then
dipped in vinegar sauce.
The Japanese term, aji, which also means taste, apparently
became called as thus because they are tasty.
The once popular fish has now become rather pricey.
As is well acknowledged, the fish is rich in eicosapentaenoic
acid (EPA). As the acid helps prevent thrombosis,
the fish should be offered during sake drinking
occasions from time to time.
|
| |
|
 |
Stone flounder
As the Japanese saying, “Bastard halibut on the left,
stone flounder on the left” goes, halibut flatfish has
both eyes on the left side of the head, while stone
flounders have both eyes on the right. Needless to say,
there are exceptions.
There are many members of the flounder family. Stone
flounder and marbled sole are representative of this
family in Japan. They are both in season at this time of
year.
Stone flounder are known for actually looking as if they
carry a stone on the right side of their backs.
They are best eaten in paper-thin slices, or in sashimi
slices, dipped in yuzu juice, vinegar and soya sauce,
but can also be chopped and simmered with sugar
and soya sauce. They will serve to be a perfect
accompaniment to sake.
The famous Shiroshita-garei, caught near the Beppu
Hot Springs in Oita, southwestern Japan, are also a kind
of marbled sole. |
| |
|
|
Conger eel
Conger eel live inside holes they make in mud on
seabeds. Conger eel look very similar to eel, but have
a light taste. They taste best starting early summer,
when they are ready to lay eggs.
The delicacy is a well-known sushi ingredient, but can
also be enjoyed as a tempura dish, grilled in sauce, or
simmered. They go well with sake.
|
|
Translated by Hitomi Nakamura |
 |
|
|
 |
|
