Author: Hiroyuki Kouda
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KIKUSUI
KIKUSUI_Brewing Sake_Information Enjoying_Sake Sake_Culture_Institute
   

SHUDO-The Way of Sake

Prologue

November

December

January

February

March

April

May

June

July

August

September

October

Japanese Sake Story

 
Chapter 11




 A small, peaceful drinking party is held on the Feast of the Chrysanthemum. A drinker
wipes his mouth with his sleeve after he accidentally moistens his lips, while taking a sip
of sake and attempting to avoid the floating chrysanthemum petals in his sake cup.
     
   
 

  The name Nagatsuki derives its name from Aki no
yonaga (long evening of autumn). Some say September,
being the month of harvest, also used to be called
Juku-zuki (Ripened month) and Inekari-zuki (Month of
rice harvest). September, the ninth month of the current
Gregorian calendar, also means the month of harvest.
  It’s the time of year when the Pacific high pressure
system, which has for long prevailed during the summer,
loses strength, and a number of migratory high pressure
systems begin to pass through the Japanese archipelago.
But a short while later a rain-front begins to
hover over southern coasts, ushering in the autumnal
rain-front in Kanto and areas west. Typhoons also begin
to form above southern waters. Last year (1999), ten
typhoons hit Japanese shores, bringing in massive rain
and wreaking havoc across the archipelago. 

 
   
 
  In the sixth century, a devoted subject of Emperor
Wen of China’s Wei dynasty went deep into the mountains
after receiving orders from his master to search for
water with healing powers. There he encountered a
hermit who claimed to be seven hundred years old.
  Seven hundred years ago, the hermit was a boy
servant to Emperor Mu of the Chou dynasty. He had
been tricked and banished to the mountain, where he
wrote verses he received from the Emperor on chrysanthemum
leaves, and drank dew off the flower and
gained immorality. The boy servant, who himself was
astounded by his own longevity, and legends has it that
he passed on the secrets to his eternal youth to
Emperor Wen.
  The story is included in Taiheiki, the Chronicle of
Medieval Japan, volume 13. The hermit goes by the
name of Chrysanthemum Boy. It is a title of a play in the
Kanze school (other schools call it Makura-jido (Pillow
Boy). Sake, with floating chrysanthemum petals, is said
to be a joyous sake that brings longevity.
  September ninth is traditionally the Festival of Juhyo. In
China, even numbers belong to yin, while odd numbers
to yang. When the two yang numbers meet, the occasion
called for a celebration. In the lunar calendar, the
day fell on the chrysanthemum season, hence, also the
name, Festival of Chrysanthemum.
  The tradition crossed Japanese shores during the
Heian period, and taken up at Imperial Court. During
the Edo period between the 17th to 19th centuries, the
tradition was made most public out of the five Sekku
festivals observed.
  Even today, one would like to reproduce the tradition
by dropping several petals of edible chrysanthemum
petals on his/her sake cup.
   

Moon-viewing Sake
  August 15th in the traditional lunar calendar (present
day September 18th) is Chushu no Meigetsu, or “midautumn
full moon”. The lunar calendar finds July to be
shosh? (the beginning of autumn), August chushu
(mid-autumn) and September banshu (end of autumn).
On this night, tables are set in front of homes and
gardens. Dumplings, adorned with Japanese pampas
grass and autumnal wild flowers and grass, are offered
to the moon. Moon-gazers enjoy the full moon while
sipping sake.
  The day is also referred to as Imo Meigetsu, (Potato
Full Moon), because a dozen dumplings and potatoes
were offered to the moon. Tradition has it that the
number was increased to thirteen in leap years.
  The moon with transparent light, reflects inside the
cup of sake. It’s a sight that would make viewers want
to recite poems, or prose.
  In summer, it is a good idea to put wine glasses and
glass cups for sake in freezer immediately after washing
them. Make sure you don’t wipe or dry the glasses. Get
them out of the freezer just before serving drinks. A glass
covered with frost makes a perfect vehicle for a cold
drink.

   
 
  

Chopsticks are indispensable to Japanese cuisine.
The utensil should be used elegantly, as bad manners
may cause the drinking party to turn ugly. Here are
some taboos:

Utsuri-bashi (capricious chopsticks)
Also goes by the name of nautsuri. The gesture picks up
one food with chopsticks only to change one’s mind
and pick up another. This lacks respect to both the
organizer of the party and the chef, because it’s
evidence that the diner has not savored any of the
dishes. A piece of food should be taken and savored.
The diner should take a sip of sake in between the
dishes.

Komibashi (stuffing chopsticks)
  This gesture of stuffing an already-full mouth with
food using chopsticks is ill-mannered and unpleasant to
watch.

Neburibashi (licking chopsticks)
  One should never lick the tips of chopsticks as it is
unforgivable as well as ugly.

Saguri-bashi (stirring chopsticks)
  This gesture involves stirring a bowl of soup with
chopsticks, to search out certain ingredients. Diners
tend to do this without thinking, so one should take a
mental note not to do so.

Mayoi-bashi (wandering chopsticks)
  It’s considered very bad manners to wave chopsticks
around in the air above one’s food, as if wondering
what to eat next.

Kara-bashi (empty chopsticks)
  This is one of the worst things one could do - pick up
and touch the foods with chopsticks once but put the
food back without eating.

Sashi-bashi (stabbing chopsticks)
  Typically, males tend to stab food, such as potatoes,
to eat. But if the food is slippery or too big to pick up, it
should be halved with chopsticks.

 

 

Mackerel
  Mackerel becomes tastier as it gets fatter, when the
autumn sets in. Locals near fishing ports tend to savor
the delicacy raw, but this is not recommended to those
with allergies, as raw mackerel causes stomachaches,
diarrhea, and rash. The fish should be eaten marinated,
or heated, be it grilled with salt or simmered with miso
paste broth with a yuzu citrus fruit flavor.
  The expression, “Don’t feed autumn mackerel to
daughters-in-law” does not imply treating the wives of
one’ s sons unkindly. Because honsaba Japanese
mackerel spawn in the spring, they do not carry eggs.
The Japanese traditionally took that as a bad omen,
and that their son may not be blessed with children if
autumn mackerel was eaten.
   
Haze (Goby)
  The goby season kicks in at this time of year. The fish is
also called higan haze, because they can be caught
before and after the week of higan, or Buddhist
services performed during the equinoctial week.
Though preparing the dish may be painstaking, fresh
goby is best eaten in raw slices or in paper-thin slices.
The most common way of enjoying the delicacy is
slitting open its back to take the bones out and eaten
in deep fried tempura. It makes a perfect tempura
dish, along with megochi (dragonet) and kisu (sillago)
because of its light flavor
   
Ochiayu (Downstream Sweetfish)
  The young sweetfish season seems only a while ago.
But it’s already the season for ochiayu, the season
when sweetfish go downstream to spawn. The fish
spawn in about October. These sweetfish specifically
go by the name of ochiayu. They are also called sabiayu,
because they turn rusty in color. They contain
much fast, and the female sweetfish carry lots of eggs.
   
Kudari-gatsuo (Descending Bonito)
  The bonito that swam northwards are now beginning
to make a descent. The fish is by now rich with fat,
compared to spring, much to the joy of gourmand,
who best enjoy the bonito at this time of year.
   

Kinukatsugi (Unblemished Taro)
  The vegetable’s name derives from kinukazuki, a
cloth worn over the heads of ladies in the upper ranks
of society for more than one thousand years. Kinukatsugi
is young taro. The vegetable should be boiled as is,
and eaten with salt while peeling off its skin. It is a tasty
vegetable that can be served between a course meal,
as its simple taste compliments a sake drink.

Translated by Fumiko Konoye Back October