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Sakamai Kikusui
 This is a story of the birth and revival of "Kikusui",
the "sakamai (rice for the use of sake brewing)" with
the same name as the "sake", "Kikusui".
Scene 1
The fascinating
connection between
Kiku
(Chrysanthemum)
and rice |
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There are some interesting connections
between Kiku and rice. Within the Kanji
character of Kiku (Chrysanthemum),
there is the Kanji character of Kome
(rice). And just like the Kanji character,
there is a "Chrysanthemum blossom"
inside each grain of rice. The rice most
suited to making sake is called "sakamai".
This type of rice is large and soft
with a coarse nucleus called the "Shinpaku"
at the center (the white core that
can be seen from the outside). When this
"Shinpaku" is observed under the microscope,
it is shaped surprisingly like a
Chrysanthemum blossom. |
Scene 2
Inherited from the
legendary sakamai,
"Omachi" |
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In Showa 12 (1937), a "sakamai" was
created by the National Agricultural
Experiment Station of Aichi Prefecture.
It was named "Kikusui (Chrysanthemum
water)". ("Sui" (water) was given the
name because of sake's close link to
water.)
This rice was developed through selective
breeding of the famous "Omachi"
variety. The best seedlings from each
year were carefully selected, and in the
process, the damage-prone, long stem of
the "Omachi" was successfully shortened
by 20 centimeters. The long stem was
seen as the only blemish of the original
variety, therefore, the result was a perfect
"sakamai" with a quality equal to, if
not better than that of "Omachi".
The news immediately spread throughout
the agriculture community across the
country. Among them, the staffs of
National Agricultural Experiment Station
in Niigata instantaneously showed
strong interest in the rice.
Through the selective breeding of
"Kikusui" variety, they created the sakamai,
"Gohyakumangoku", one of the
widely used "sakamai" at the present
time.
However, the "Kikusui" variety itself
was soon replaced by a new "kikusui
bred" variety named the "Shiragiku". The
new variety showed better resistance to
harmful insects. Inevitably, by Showa 20
(1945), "Kikusui" completely disappeared
from the market. |
Scene 3
From only 25 grains of seed rice |
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Now, after more than 50 years, the sakamai, "Kikusui", was awakened form its sleep. Among the staffs of "Kyosei no Daichi Niigata 21, LTD. (an agricultural association in the Prefecture of Niigata)", dedicated to the production of sakamai such as "Gohyakumangoku" and "Ipponjime", and a plan to revive the original sakamai, "Kikusui", arose.
It was the start of a challenge to make real the dream of brewing the sake, "Kikusui", from the sakamai, "Kikusui".
However, the big question was, "Where can we find the seed rice of 'Kikusui' ?". After a lengthy search, they were able to get hold of 25 grains of the original "Kikusui". The fruit of the labor blossomed, bore fruit and culminated into a successful revival of the original "Kikusui" sake.
It inherited the distinctive flavor from "Omachi", escaped disaster and was immortalized... |
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Scene 4
Good sake is made from good rice |
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The flavor of sake is largely dependant on the flavor of the rice itself. The
sake made from sakamai, "Kikusui", embodies the five flavors (sweet, sour, salty, bitter and hot), tantalizing the palate with its delicate aroma and its deep, mellow flavor. You may call it the ultimate sake.
A poet once described "Kikusui" as a sake that, "Invites you into tranquility like being embraced by a placid mountain lake". Likewise, another poet praised its taste as being "unforgettable and infatuating". |
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Scene 5
The people who were associated with "Sakamai Kikusui" |
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A professional farming organization who revived "Sakamai Kikusui"
"Kyosei no Daichi Niigata 21, LTD." is a professional farming organization, devoted to growing rice in the rice-producing district of Niigata. In their endeavor to further develop Japanese rice making in the 21st Century, they aim to create harmony with nature and its consumers by continuing the challenge to produce safe and good organic rice.
President of "Shudo", Master Hiroyuki KOUDA
The logo and picture of the product label of "Kikusui" was created by a brush made from the bundled rice ears of the "Sakamai Kikusui", drawn by Master Hiroyuki KOUDA, President of "Shudo" and calligraphist. "Shudo" is closely associated with "Kado" (traditional flower arrangement) and "Sado" (the tea ceremony), and its purpose is to have a deep understanding of sake and to acquire the multilateral culture of drinking.
The master craftsmen of Junmai Daiginjo Jikomi (brewing method of Junmai Daiginjo)
The passion and adoration for the rice, "Kikusui", roused each craftsmen's spirit to brew sake with painstaking care and dedication. Please enjoy its delicate aroma and deep, soft flavor with the sashimi (sliced raw fish) in season or hot pot. The flavor of sake is even more enhanced when drank chilled or at room temperature. |
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| Kyosei no Daichi (Symbiotic earth) Niigata 21, Ltd. |
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| Back to Sakamai Kikusui |
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Translation: Mami Kobayashi
Proofreading: Kazuto Sakamoto
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