 |
|
 |
 |
 |
| |
Toppage > Shudo - The Way of Sake> chapter10 |
 |

 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
| In the traditional lunar calendar, August first us “the day of trust” Offerings at the alter set up in households of farmers include a small bale of rice. They are offered to pray for a bountiful rice crop. |
|
 |
 |
 |
『Cirrocumulus』 |
 |
| |
|
|
| |
August, in the traditional lunar calendar, would b present day September, when autumn would have already set in. Traditionally August was described as the “month the leaves fall”, or the “month the first geese arrive”. But August now is brutally hot, without a sign of a breeze, let alone autumnal wind.
Typically, however, the weather becomes more stable compared to the month before, and there is less humidity. Temperatures will be high, with little signs of change in the weather chart. But come Rissh? (around August eighth) - the first day of autumn by the lunar calendar ? it begins to feel somewhat cool in the mornings and evenings. The summer cumulonimbus clouds are replaced by high-level cirrocumulus, signaling that autumn is right around the corner.
|
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
| |
|
|
| |
『Sake to welcome the spirits 』 |
|
| |
 The Urabon’e Buddhist ceremony for the repose of the dead falls on
the thirteenth day of the seventh month in Tokyo, and ends on the sixteenth. On early evening on July 13th, the Tokyo-ites greet the spirits of their ancestors, and light a bonfire send off their spirits. Most rural areas, however, follow the month-late lunar calendar, and practice the rites one month later. Some places in Mie, western Japan, observe the tradition on August 1st, because they were too busy raising silkworms when the silk industry was booming a century ago.
Kusaichi leaf fairs, which specialized in selling offerings to ancestors, open on the night before the bon ritual and close the next morning. Offerings include ogara hempsticks, used to light bonfires to greet or send off the sprits, horses and oxen made from cucumbers and eggplants, paper lanterns and flowers. These are used to create an altar to greet one’s ancestors.
Place fresh bamboo logs in four corners, and bind with rope to create an altar. Embellish the altar with leaves and flowers, including pine, and set the ancestral tablet. The best sake should be offered to one’s ancestors, who may have had a fondness in the liquor.
The descendents should drink sake with the spirits of their ancestors, and thank them for bringing them into this world, while praying for family prosperity.
If possible, the sake should be offered in inokuchi sake cups and such used by one’s ancestors. It would be nice for the descendents to drink from these cups, too. One may be pleasantly surprised to learn that these cups serve a worthwhile purpose.
|
|
| |
|
|
| |
『Nagoshi no sake (Sake for summer purification ritual)』 |
|
| |
 Shrines across Japan perform, on June 30th in the lunar calendar, Nagoshi no Oharai, a purification ritual to atone for their sin in the first half of the year to pass the summer safely.
Nagoshi, which, in Chinese characters, is written “summer passing”, literally means to pray to pass the brutally hot summer without much ado. It’s believed that this ritual came to be after ancient Japanese believed the hot temperatures at this time of year to be a sign of anger expressed by the deities.
At the same time, the word Nagoshi, can also mean to ease. The expression may also be a play on words, because it can also mean to defuse the anger of the deities.
Worshippers pass through a large ring made of cogon grass, erected on the pathway leading to the shrine, to purify themselves from misdeeds. It would be a good idea to pass through such a ring to avoid running into trouble, when visiting shrines to worship one’s ancestral spirits.
Please have a taste of mellow tasting Nagoshi no sake (sake for summer purification ritual) in a gathering following the observance.
|
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
『 Enjoying the scenery inside the simmered dish bowl』 |
|
| |
|
|
| |
A simmered dish, specially called takiawase during a course of kaiseki cuisine, is usually served in a flat bowl, with a lid. One should hold firmly the rim of the bowl with his/her thumb and index fingers on the left hand, and lift the lid with his/her right hand. The lid should then be held vertically near the right rim of the bowl so the vapor on the back of the lid falls inside the bowl. The lid should then be placed farther right, with the back of the lid facing up.
|
|
| |
It would be natural to want to indulge into feasting immediately, but one should wait a while. One should appreciate the scenery inside the bowl, by examining how the food is arranged. The takiawase dish should include foods with either vegetable of animal protein from the oceans, mountains and local hills. The foods tend to have lighter tastes, and should be served in odd numbers ? three, five and seven.
It is the custom to take turns sipping sake and having a bite of this dish, while taking short breaks. Some of the simmered foods are strongly flavored, and others less so. These foods should also be enjoyed in turns.
Also, the bowl should be lifted near the mouth, as some of the liquid use to simmer the foods may remain, and fall.
Is the dish finished? Nothing should remain in the bowl. The lid should be placed back. There are some people who place the lid somewhat sideways to indicate that the dish has been touched, but there is no need to do so.
The chef should have finished preparing the rice dish. Sake should not be drunk over long periods. The foods should be eaten somewhat promptly to show one’s regards to the chef. |
|
|
|
 |
 |
 |
 |
|
 |
| |
|
|
| |
『Aori-ika (big-fin reef squid)』 |
|
| |
The best squid species to be enjoyed during the summer season. It’s a kind of arrow squid, known for its wide fin. The wide fin looks much like aori, a mudflap, hence the name, aori-ika (squid).
The squid grows to be about 50 to 60 centimeters. Because the body is thick and rather chewy, they can be best enjoyed as a sashimi dish, after simmered slightly in boiling hot water after the surface of the body is lightly slit in a dappled pattern.
|
|
| |
|
|
| |
『Kanpachi (Greater Amberjack)』 |
|
| |
The fish is a member of the horse mackerel family, but looks and tastes more like yellowtail and striped jack.
Though it has a light taste, they become tasty around August. It’s best eaten in raw slices, but can be enjoyed also grilled with salt, basted with teriyaki sauce, or steamed with sake.
The fish is known to have a pattern which looks like the Chinese character, eight (hachi), on its forehead- hence the name kanpachi (literally, “eight in the middle”).
|
|
| |
|
|
| |
『Kohada (Gizzard Shad)』 |
|
| |
An indispensable ingredient to Edo-style sushi. A recent trend in sushi bars is to prize the young gizzard shad measuring about five centimeters. But the ones that have grown to about ten to 15 centimeters between the summer and early fall taste better.
The flavor could be better enjoyed with pickled ginger slices, than soy sauce, when the dish is served to accompany sake.
|
|
 |
| Translated by Stephen Hanson
|
|
 |